A history teacher in Diyarbakır transforms classic local food into vegan delights

In southeastern Turkey's Diyarbakır region, a history teacher has accomplished a remarkable achievement by transforming beloved local culinary traditions into delectable vegan creations.

Zeynep Olgun, a dedicated vegan who taught in Istanbul, embarked on a mission to recreate cherished regional recipes using plant-based ingredients, rekindling her connection to her hometown.

Photo credit: ANADOLU AGENCY

For instance, in her inventive version of içli köfte (bulgur-stuffed balls), Olgun replaced eggs with water in the dough and devised a filling comprising oyster mushrooms, onions, parsley, and a medley of spices. Similarly, her rendition of lahmacun (Turkish flatbread with toppings) saw her swap out ground meat for seasonal vegetables and incorporate pan-fried eggplants.

When tackling dishes like sour dolma (stuffed vegetables) and sarma (stuffed grape leaves), Olgun artfully substituted meat and ground meat for fresh seasonal vegetables, fragrant herbs, and a tantalizing blend of spices, enriching the flavors with olive oil.

The dolma, infused with sumac-tinged water, gained delightful tanginess under her culinary expertise.

Photo credit: ANADOLU AGENCY

Olgun generously shared her mastery of vegan cuisine while preparing these dishes in Diyarbakır's Saklıkonağ neighborhood. "As a vegan, I often yearned for dishes traditionally centered around meat. This spurred me to devise ways to render these meals vegan-friendly," Olgun reflected, noting that her experiments won acclaim from her friends who sampled her creations.

Underscoring Diyarbakır's culinary heritage, Olgun expressed her dedication to imbuing local fare with plant-based flair. She said, "When people think of Diyarbakır cuisine, their minds gravitate toward meat-centric dishes. I'm trying to harmonize Diyarbakır cuisine with global influences. I substitute meat for alternatives like mushrooms, chickpeas, lentils, walnuts, and eggplants." In addition, "I've reimagined sarma, lahmacun, and içli köfte for the vegan palate. The key difference lies in our choice of ingredients. I opt for meat alternatives that align with the season and complement vegetable flavors."

Olgun candidly admitted that her strongest craving as a vegan was for the renowned Diyarbakır-style liver kebab. However, she overcame this yearning by marinating chestnut or oyster mushrooms in the traditional spices used in the dish. She then grilled them to replicate the cherished flavors. "This approach lets me satiate my liver kebab craving," she added.

With aspirations of establishing her own vegan cuisine brand, Olgun also revealed her ongoing projects involving her students at the school where she imparts knowledge. One notable endeavor revolves around crafting içli köfte using "kenger," a local plant.

"Our aim is to acknowledge both global shifts and evolving dynamics while preserving our region's distinct essence. Nudging people's palates and habits to adapt can be challenging. Yet, I'm confident I achieved this in my household. My children relish my dishes, believing they contain meat."

Zeynep Olgun, Diyarbakır, Türkiye, July 17, 2023.
Photo credit: ANADOLU AGENCY

Olgun's innovative approach to veganizing traditional Diyarbakır fare exemplifies the convergence of cultural heritage and modern dietary preferences. This contributes to the burgeoning popularity of plant-based alternatives in the culinary realm.